KAUFMANFRANCO describes themselves as ‘The New Sensualists’
KAUFMANFRANCO’s mix of sophistication and edge, luxury and function, handcrafted and high-tech offers up a body conscious sensuality as complex and provocative as the modern woman they dress.
“Although our aesthetic is trained in a similar way, interestingly enough, it is always the tension between us that pushes us creatively,” says Franco.
His combustible mix of the raw and the refined, the spontaneous and the controlled, produces heat and balance, imbuing their work with a visceral energy. Simplicity is a unifying element of the KAUFMANFRANCO brand.
Franco comments, “We deliver clothes that are deceptively understated, but when you take a closer look at them, they are actually quite complex, not based on decoration but on the cut, fabric and meticulous detailing.” Kaufman adds, “This detailing continues from the outside in, manipulating the construction of each garment in order to create an inside-out sexiness.”
There’s often a divided nature about Kaufmanfranco collections. At their best, Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco walk a fine line between sexy and restrained, flashy and minimal.
Backstage before their Fall 2014/15 show, the designers summarized this season’s artful contrasts: “If it was going to be indulgent, it was going to be very restrained more badass, but a little good girl, in keeping with the DNA of who we are.”
Moving into eveningwear, the designers channeled a slight nineties vibe with long bias-cut slips they said were a tribute to Kate Moss. One in herringbone-printed silk had graphic appeal topped with a matching wool duster coat. Meanwhile, a similar periwinkle-colored number felt modern paired with a gauzy cashmere pullover that shrugged off the model’s shoulder. Casual yet sophisticated, these standout slips added a needed softness to the lineup, and encouraged ample layering.
“We wanted that intimate lingerie feel but also a protective shell. It’s about mixing that vulnerable thing with the ‘nobody’s getting through this,'” said Kaufman.
Hence, a handful of high-tech parkas lined with plush mink. You could imagine a pretty young starlet wearing one in the car on her way to an event. She waits until the last moment, then whips it off just as she hits the red carpet, revealing a dazzling dress underneath there were plenty that fit the bill here. The finale group of high-wattage embellished gowns had definite bling factor. Several featured allover crystals that appeared to have been slashed, and the thousands of tiny bugle beads covering a long-sleeved column had a liquid silver effect that lit up the runway.