Ulyana Sergeenko took her audence on an imaginary train journey around the Southern Republics of the former Soviet Union for her collection: through Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan, she said. Certainly the colours – midnight blue and ruby, emerald green and dusty rose, powder pink and crimson – were suggestive of exotic climes.
This season the silhouette went from long and lean with – overblown – skirts like giant puffballs. Contrasts between the masculine and the feminine, the East and the West were in evidence too. Gowns with a cinched waist and corsetted top gathered volume and were then draped to fall off the shoulders. They were worn over sharply tailored trousers, Cossack style. Fringing, quilting and embroideries embellished oversized heavy silk overcoats and Twenties-line slips.