While the European jewelry houses were praised for their new pieces at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, they weren’t the only ones creating marvelous art deco jewels: American jewelers such as Tiffany, Raymond Yard, Marcus & Co., Black Starr & Frost, and J.E. Caldwell produced important art deco pieces on par with their European counterparts.
One of the great American jewelers, Raymond Yard and his outstanding designs endure today as excellent examples of Art Deco jewelry. With the backing and support of John D. Rockefeller Jr., Yard opened his first store in 1922 at 522 Fifth Avenue after having spent twenty years at Marcus & Co., where he started at the age of thirteen opening doors and ended as the most sought after salesman on the floor. A laundry list of New York’s wealthiest families came to Yard for their luxurious jewelry fixes: Woolworth, Flagler, DuPont, Harriman and Vanderbilt. A notorious perfectionist, Yard meticulously worked on perfecting every detail of his design as well as selecting the perfect stones, even if it meant waiting weeks or months to find them. His special twist on the tried and true Art Deco style was mixing gems with different styles of cutting, most notably combining round brilliants with straight baguettes. Shields, trapezoids and cushions also sprinkled his elaborate jewels, just like the stone in these brooches. The medley of gems with varying gem cuts produces a stunning piece of jewelry radiating with vibrant color.
The flexible band designed as two old European and single-cut diamond panels, each centering upon square and bullet-cut sapphires and French-cut diamonds, enhanced by calibré-cut sapphires and baguette-cut diamonds, flanked on either side by navette-cut diamonds, alternating with old European and baguette-cut diamond openwork rectangular links, joined by old European-cut diamond arched links, mounted in platinum, circa 1935, 7 ins.
Signed Yard for Raymond Yard
Each designed as an openwork circular and baguette-cut diamond scrolled plaque, centering upon a half moon sapphire, decorated with calibré-cut sapphire ribbon detail, mounted in white gold, circa 1935
Each signed Yard for Raymond Yard
Designed as an old European and square-cut sapphire bow in a step-like pattern, with an old European-cut diamond pierced knot, trimmed by single and old European-cut diamonds and pearls, mounted in platinum, circa 1920
Signed Tiffany & Co.
Designed as two circular-cut and single-cut diamond openwork panels, set with square-cut and baguette-cut diamond detail, spaced by two single-cut diamond open links, mounted in platinum, circa 1935, 7 1/8 ins., with French assay marks
Signed Tiffany & Co., Londres, no. 17193
Ruby and diamond bracelet, centering on two lines of cabochon-cut rubies separated by three larger-sized antique cushion-cut diamonds, accented by circular-cut and baguette-cut diamonds, the 38 rubies weighing approximately 13.30 total carats, the three antique cushion-cut diamonds weighing approximately 4.00 total carats, the circular-cut diamonds weighing approximately 16.00 total carats, and the baguette-cut diamonds weighing approximately 5.70 total carats, mounted in platinum, signed J.E. Caldwell & Co.
Of geometric design, set with three oval-shaped cabochon emeralds, each within a circular-cut diamond plaque, alternating with openwork circular and baguette-cut diamond panels, mounted in platinum, circa 1930, 7¾ ins.
Signed J.E. Caldwell & Co., nos. 31834 and M7899